Archive | April, 2012

Yellow Paint, Colorful Lanterns, and Cao Lau in Hoi An

There are certain locations that exist where the appeal lies not in a bounty of historical sites, not in their proximity to crumbling temples or prayer pagodas, nor due to the blessings of a beautiful landscape, but in the character and personality of the location itself — through the intangibles and ethereal characteristics that are difficult pinpoint, but that one will […]

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Imperial Tombs, Prayer Pagodas, and Bun Bo in Hue

Roughly half-way down the Vietnamese coast (and a horribly uncomfortable 14-hour bus ride from Hanoi) lies historical city of Hue.  This former Imperial City was home to 13 emperors of the Nyguyen dynasty during its reign as Vietnam’s capital from 1802 through 1945, many of whose massive tombs can still be visited today.  Beyond the opulent tombs, however, stand many ruins […]

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“One Please!” (Take Two) – Bowls of Pho, Glasses of Bia Hoi, and Other Street Eats in Hanoi

One of the true pleasures of visiting Southeast Asia is the absolute abundance of amazingly appetizing street food (as well as alliteration!).  Everywhere you look, there are folks parked on plastic chairs on the sidewalk digging in, small grills being rolled out and tended to with a paper fan, the welcoming aroma of seared meat wafting […]

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Hanoi: City of the Rising Dragon

Hanoi, Vietnam: Throughout the course of its history, Hanoi has been called my many names — “Song Peace”, “Dragon Belly”, “Between Rivers”, “Ascending and Flourishing”, and my personal favorite, “The Rising Dragon” — but regardless of the many poetic monikers that it has taken on, it’s a city that lives with its history of colonialism, communism, capitalism, […]

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River Views and Waterfalls in Luang Prabang

Perched on a peninsula created by the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers lies the city of Luang Prabang, a another long-time favorite of travelers to Southeast Asia.  Interestingly enough, however, whereas many travelers actively avoid any destination that largely caters to foreign visitors, they seem to overcome their biases and flock here in droves; where many would […]

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Where Beauty Trumps Controversy in Vang Vieng

In the last few years, no single destination in all of Southeast Asia has been the recipient of harsher criticism, has had more vocal objectors, or has been a stronger lightning rod for controversy than that of Vang Vieng, Laos.  What was once a small, riverside town popular with traveling vagabonds and new-age hippies has now blossomed into a full-fledged amusement park for the backpacker sub-culture.  […]

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Lazy Days, Leisurely Strolls, and Laab in Vientiane

You’ll likely read about it in guidebooks ahead of time, hear it spoken from fellow travelers, and see it printed out on brochures and travel ads before embarking, but as soon as you touch down in Laos, you’ll realize that the idea behind what seems like the National motto — “LPDR: Lao, Please Don’t Rush” — will […]

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A Crash Course in Khmer Cuisine

When asking around about what defines Khmer (Cambodian) cuisine, the most common response I would receive is “It’s pretty much the same as Thai food, just not as spicy.”  Whereas I understand that the two countries share many of the same ingredients, have a history that has been intertwined for the last 1,000 years, and […]

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