Temporarily Lost

The country of Vietnam, a North-South-oriented landmass that plays home to nearly 80 million people, hosts it’s two major metropolises at either end of its meandering shape.  Being a “South-bounder,” one who started my exploration in the Northern capital of Hanoi and continued my journey South, I had already formed a mental image of what I would likely see upon reaching the Southern anchor and most populous city of Saigon — which has technically been renamed Ho Chi Minh City, though the majority of haven’t given in to the change just yet.  The ancient alleyways and low-rise skyline of Hanoi, a gritty destination of street vendors and smog, however, colored my expectations of what I’d find in Saigon.  This preformed bias, however, couldn’t have been any more off-target from the modern city that I ventured into.  The labyrinthine residential districts are replaced with towering glass skyscrapers, the street-side bia hoi sellers have disappeared in favor of flashy nightclubs, and the romantic images of bike-filled lanes and children playing in the street have been supplanted by posh clothing boutiques plied by wealthy shoppers sporting the latest fashion trends.

This isn’t to say that Saigon has lost sight of what it used to be or that its heart has been replaced by a modern, capitalistic drive.  If you venture outside of the city-center that is Districts 1 and 3, you’ll still be able to find the jovial old ladies selling delicious bowls of noodles, mangy dogs trolling for a friendly soul to throw them a few scraps, the colorful montage of Buddhist, Hindu, and Catholic influences juxtaposed together, and the sense of a local community that looks out for its own.  And oh yeah, the motorbike traffic is still there and still just as intimidating, if not more so, than anywhere else in Southeast Asia.

The crowded streets of the Bui Vien area of town (where many of the foreign visitors find accomodation)

Notre Dame Cathedral

The sprawling Ben Thanh Market

I’m not sure how the Main Post Office became a tourist attraction, but the interior is pretty cool

The Quac Tu Pagoda

The streets lit up at night

The People’s Community Hall

The traffic in Saigon is legendary, and for good reason

A Vietnamese tank on display outside of the Reunification Palace

The facade of the Opera House

Given that the rainy season is fast approaching, one has to make sure to bring along and umbrella when wandering the streets

If you’ve been following my adventure for a while, I’m sure you’re well aware of my penchant to hike, climb, scale, or otherwise ascend to the highest point within eye-shot in an attempt to gain a better view of the surrounding lands.  Unfortunately, Saigon is almost entirely devoid of pleasant hillsides or scenic mountains, but fortunately, they do have one gigantic tower that stands out against the skyline .  The Bitexco Financial Tower allows visitors to gain a bird’s-eye view of the city from the observation deck 50-some stories up, all for about a $10 admission charge.  Behold, the city of Saigon as seen from above:

The Bitexco Financial Tower from street level

Once you’ve strolled down the former Rue Catinat, wandered the backpacker hangouts, shopped to your heart’s content (or your’s wallet’s dismay) around the Lam Son Park, and viewed the city from above, another great option to explore the culture of Saigon is to grab a cab (preferably a motorbike taxi) and head for the neighborhood of Cholon, the Chinatown area of Ho Chi Minh City.  All the charms of a normal Chinatown are present — a bustling market filled with vegetables and animal parts you previously didn’t know existed, cramped alleyways snaking to who knows where, dozens of restaurants serving up mouth-watering dishes, and more dialects being spoken than you can count — but the highlight is a trio of Chinese-style temples that all lie within a block of each other:

The entrance to Thien Hau Pagoda

Candles surrounding a small image of Buddha

Neon pink prayer scrolls line the walls

The somewhat overwhelming, chaotic interior of the Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda

The haze and aroma from incense spirals hung along the ceiling help to create a mystical atmosphere inside the temples

The interior of the Quan Am Pagoda

Throughout my tour of Vietnam so far, I’ve largely avoided the topic of the American War here, given the myriad of political and theological beliefs that surround it.  One sight, however, that I knew I had to include on my itinerary was that of the Cu Chi Tunnels, a system of underground passageways that ran nearly 200 km, connecting Saigon with sights as far west as the Cambodian Border, and allowed the Viet Cong forces to move around in stealth and attack with little warning.  Given the poor lighting conditions and the extremely cramped quarters (honestly, I couldn’t fit in all but the largest openings), I don’t have too many pictures of the tunnels themselves, but I did snag a few quick picks of me descending into one of the many hidden entrances that litter the forest floor:

And lastly, although Hanoi likely edges out Saigon when is comes to the culinary side of things (thanks to Hanoi’s Street Food Scene), Saigon isn’t without its own merits.  I wasn’t originally going to post any more food pics, as I thought I was already over-doing it with my previous Vietnam posts, but given the comments and emails I received after my last post, I’ve brought out a few more for good measure.  Enjoy:

Pho Bo — yep, I know I’ve already showed you this, but I enjoy dish enough (and enjoyed it enough times) that I felt a second picture was in order

Hen Xuc Banh Da – Mussels with a pancake/cracker type thing

Bun Dau Ran Mam Tom – Vermicelli noodles and fried tofu to be dipped in a sour-and-bitter shrimp paste

Banh Beo Bot Loc Nem Nuong – Small, gelatinous rice cakes steamed with meatballs and served with a mildly spicy dipping sauce

Com Tam Bi Suon – A grilled pork chop and shredded pork skin served over broken rice

Xoi Vo Cha Que – Sticky Rice and Pate served with Cinnamon Pork Sausage

Banh Canh Cua – Vermicelli noodle soup with crab meat and pork

Given that Saigon seems significantly warmer and more humid than the rest of the Vietnamese cities I visited (largely due to it closer proximity to the equator), Che vendor set up everywhere, selling cups or bowls or cool and refreshing sweet treats, grasses, jellies, and coconut mixtures. I had to sample a few to make sure I caught the broad spectrum of what was available:

Che Khoai Mon – hunks of taro stewed in a sugary sweet sauce and mixed with coconut milk

Che Troi Nuoc – Glutinous rice balls in a ginger syrup with coconut milk

And there will be no forgetting of beer here either, as Saigon has their own brand, which comes in a basic green and a slightly stronger red (as shown here)

And no culinary journey through Saigon would be complete without a visit to the Lunch Lady, a street vendor whose reputation originally grew online through the blogging community and was later boosted through an appearance on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations television show.  She wakes up early every morning to purchase her ingredients and to start the slower, simmering process that characterizes each of the different soups she makes, one for each day of the week.  She opens around 10:30am and closes as soon as she runs out, which happens every day.  Between those working within walking distance, the local foodies, and those expats and travelers on a Bourdain-inspired pilgrimage, you have to come early to find a seat as the place get crowded quickly:

I was a bit worried about the crowd, so I showed up around 10:30am — which turned out to be a bit early. By the time I was leaving, however, there was hardly a seat left

And here is the bowl of goodness that she served up for me. It was certainly one of the best (and cheapest) meals I had during my stay in this modern city

Post-script:  With a fully stomach and a memory card stocked with pictures, Saigon marks the end of my Vietnamese adventure.  Further, whereas I had originally planned on continuing my Southeast Asian journey with trips to the Philippines and Indonesia, I’ve decided that after 9 months of traveling, I was in need of another quiet respite from the trials and tribulations of the road and that it would be best to cut this portion of my trip short.  Much like a did over the Christmas holiday, I’m planning on heading back to the United States for a few weeks to rest up, relax, and recharge my batteries before setting back out again.

Interestingly enough, however, this break from my Round-the-World Trip wasn’t inspired by fatigue or travel burnout (as it was when I finished the European leg back in December), but was more due to the fact that the act of traveling was becoming commonplace, the thrill of entering a new city wasn’t what it was when I started, and it was beginning to worry me that the extraordinary experiences one has on the road were becoming “normal and routine” for me.  Given that I want to experience each new destination with as much energy and excitement as possible, I felt as though it was best to re-set my “normal” at home before I reached the point at which I was having to drag myself through new cities, merely going through the motions of travel.

So, needless to say, I won’t have any new travel posts for the next few weeks at least.  I do, however, have a few other ideas for essays and side projects bouncing around in my head (maybe even a second installment of my Life on the Road series), so hopefully I’ll be able to put those into words and have some new material out in the interim before I start traveling again.  As of now, my next destination is going to be a safari in Tanzania in July, followed by another 4-5 months leg of my voyage, this time through Eastern Asia (Japan, South Korea, China, Hong Kong, Taiwan).  Past that, my future travel wish list still includes the likes of Nepal, India, Australia, New Zealand, much of South America, and South Africa — with the Philippines and Indonesia now being thrown back on that list, too.  I still have a long journey to go ahead of me, but if it turns out to be anything like what I’ve experienced so far, I’m in for a real treat.  Cheers from Saigon!

Post-Post-Script: In case you were curious about the title of this post, I had the unique pleasure of turning 30 years old while staying in Saigon (and my birthday present was a nice 9-hour busride from Da Lat to Saigon…augh).  Supposedly it is one of those “milestone birthdays,” but honestly, I don’t feel any different from how I did when I was 29.  I did enjoy the fact, however, that I got to experience this milestone while doing what I love: seeing and experiencing the world.  Hopefully I’ll still be traveling for many birthdays to come!

Nha Trang, Vietnam:

Further south along the coast in the Khanh Hoa province lies the coastal town of Nha Trang.  The juxtaposition of the pristine beaches and tiny islands along the South China Sea to the east with the backdrop of the looming mountains to the west has created a gorgeous landscape that explains why Nha Trang has become one of the most popular holiday destinations for both international and domestic tourists.  In addition to admiring the surrounding vistas, the Nha Trang Bay is also renowned for the quality of its scuba diving as well as being a protected marine area, meaning the natural beauty isn’t likely to be spoiled anytime soon (on the water, at least).  And for the fellow temple junkies out there, the city is also home to the very well-preserved Po Nagar Tower, a remnant of the Champa Era, and the Long Son Pagoda, complete with its brilliantly white Giant Seated Buddha.

The streets of the city

The Giant Sleeping Buddha overlooking the entire city

The Po Nagar Cham Towers

The view back over the town from the Po Nagar Cham Tower

Despite its natural beauty, Nha Trang does have it vocal objectors – critics who claim that the city has become too developed, that it has lost its natural charms, that it only caters to foreign travelers, and that one can’t experience the real Vietnam, whatever that may be (although that is another argument altogether).  The critics, however, have missed their mark – not so much in description of the city itself, but their assumptions in what other travelers are trying to find on their journeys.  Very few travelers make their way to Nha Trang expecting to experience how the locals live or what life is like for the Vietnamese; they journey here to soak up the sun on the beautiful beaches!  And oh, how they are beautiful…

Da Lat, Vietnam:

Only a few more hours’ drive into the Central Highlands lies another favorite holiday destination in Vietnam: the town of Da Lat, which lies almost 1,500 meters above sea level on the Langbiang Plateau.  After several days of soaking up the rays, the relatively cool climate and the mountain views are in complete contrast to that of the beaches and the sun of Nha Trang, but quite welcomed, all the same.  Although the architecture remains the French Colonial style, the usual palm trees are now replaced by pine trees and the fields where rice in normally grown now host strawberry farms and flower fields.

Long-favored as a destination for newlyweds and vacationing couples, Da Lat is also home to what may be some of the most amazingly tacky attractions the exist anywhere on the planet.  With names such as Valley of Love and Crazy Town, these destinations can best be described as aging amusement parks minus the rollercoasters and rides, leaving only the empty shells of photo ops beside cheesy statues of giraffes or cowboys.  I’ll save you the pain of having to view these images (the tacky factor is best enjoyed in person, anyway), but here are a few of the more typical scenes around town:

A view over the city of Da Lat, with the familiar landmark of the Eiffel Tower-like antennae visible in the distance to the right

Looking out of Xuan Huong Lake

The main square at the heart of the city

A giant golden Buddha at the Linh Son Pagoda

Da Lat is also the only wine-producing region in Vietnam, whose wines can be found all of the country

I happened to visit Da Lat during the Vietnamese Independence Day, meaning the crowds were out in force. Seen here is the mass of people vying for a view of the Datanla Waterfalls

A relief outside the Truc Lam Meditation Monastery

The view of the Valley of Love (with as many tacky statues cropped out as possible)

Da Lat also marks my last stop before heading into the big city of Saigon itself.  Until then, cheers for Nha Trang and Da Lat!

There are certain locations that exist where the appeal lies not in a bounty of historical sites, not in their proximity to crumbling temples or prayer pagodas, nor due to the blessings of a beautiful landscape, but in the character and personality of the location itself – through the intangibles and ethereal characteristics that are difficult pinpoint, but that one will vividly remember long after leaving.  Over the last few months, I’ve had the pleasure of passing through several such locations (Chiang Mai and Luang Prabang spring to mind), but I’ve found myself in yet another: that of Hoi An, Vietnam.

Originally a port city that dates back as far as the 1600′s and shows its classic Vietnamese architecture, influences imported from the world abroad can still be seen in the face of Hoi An, whether it is the Japanese-style bridge on the edge of the old town, the temples and congregation halls that look as though they were plucked directly out of Beijing, or the ever-present pale yellow paint that the French were so fond of in days past.  Beyond simply the peaceful and welcoming atmosphere, Hoi An is also known both for its many fine-dining culinary creations and its dearth of tailors, seamstresses, and clothing designers, making it one of the best spots in Southeast Asia to indulge a foodie’s appetite or to satisfy one’s shopping impulses.  Below is a quick walking tour of the city itself:

The mustard-yellow paint adorns nearly every building in the Old Quarter

In addition to silks and textiles, paper lanterns are another popular export of Hoi An

A scene from the city's Central Market

Detail of the popular Japanese Bridge

Boats on the river just outside of town

A view of the Old Town, as seen from across the Thu Bon River

Inside the Phuc Kien Assembly Hall

The streets from above

Although the city of Hoi An itself is the primary draw to the area, those history buffs and temple-hoppers out there will still be able to keep themselves entertained.   About an hour’s drive outside of town lie the remains of the My Son temples, one of the most significant sites for the Cham Empire — a group that emigrated from Malaysia and held power over much of Vietnam and Cambodia during the 9th century.  Although the ruins can be over-crowded with fellow travelers much of the time, it is still worth the trip, if for nothing other than the sight of the crumbling ruins against the backdrop of the nearby mountains:

Additionally, if you’re weary bones are aching and nothing sounds better to you than a nice spot of sand along the beach, a cold beverage in one hand, and a day free of obligations, Hoi An can deliver in that department, as well.  There are several beaches (though it is really just one long beach that stretches all the way to Danang) about 6 kilometers outside of town, complete with beach bars and rental chairs for those particularly lazy days.  Although the long, sweaty walk through the rice paddies to get to the beach offers a few nice views, renting a bike is likely a more sensible options — especially given that the going rate for hiring a bike is only $1/day:

Aside from the few restaurants and bars near the entrance (see above), the beaches are (thankfully) quite undeveloped

Hoi An is also the home to several notable dishes in the Vietnamese cookbook, such as White Rose Cake or Banh Xeo, but the standard-bearer is without a doubt that of Cao Lau.  In this pork-flavored dish, one can find the same variety of influences as in Hoi An itself – thick noodles similar to that of Japanese Udon; crispy squares of pork skin and wonton skins, straight from the Chinese repertoire; and a lemongrass, lime, and herb broth that could only originate from Vietnam:

Cao Lau in all its glory. This bowl is the version served by Morning Glory, but I'd also highly recommend that of Sakura or Thanh restaurants, as well

Banh Xeo - a crepe-like omelette stuffed with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts, which is then cut apart, rolled up in either lettuce leaves or rice paper with various herbs, and dunked in a mildly sweet sauce

White Rose Cake - prawns rolled in wonton skins and steamed, served with a soy based dipping sauce

Hoanh Thanh Chien, or Fried Wontons with a variety of toppings

Hoi An Cake, a common street food consisting of sweet potato, coconut, green beans, and sugar that is then grilled over an open flame

These next few dishes aren’t specific to Hoi An itself, but were still on my list of “Must try Vietnamese Dishes” that I hadn’t yet gotten around to sampling:

Bun This Nuong - vermicelli noodles, topped with a variety of herbs, veggies, and barbecued pork. It is served with a sweet sauce that is meant to be poured over the top and then mixed together before eating (this has now become my second favorite Vietnamese dish, behind Bun Cha)

Bo Luong La Lot - Ground Beef that is then rolled in Betel Leaves and grilled

Com Ga (or simply Chicken Rice) -- similar to that of the more famous Singaporean version, but the Vietnamese version includes far more herbs and veggies in the mix

And finally, Banh Uot Thit Nuong - grilled pork that has been marinated in sugar, salt, fish sauce, chili peppers, lemongrass, and the usual handful of Vietnamese herbs. This is another of the "roll your own" dishes, as it comes served with a stack of rice papers

I’m continuing my march South towards Saigon, with my next stop being the beach-bum town of Nha Trang.  Until then, Chia from Hoi An!

Roughly half-way down the Vietnamese coast (and a horribly uncomfortable 14-hour bus ride from Hanoi) lies historical city of Hue.  This former Imperial City was home to 13 emperors of the Nyguyen dynasty during its reign as Vietnam’s capital from 1802 through 1945, many of whose massive tombs can still be visited today.  Beyond the opulent tombs, however, stand many ruins that mark the political and spiritual influence that Hue once held; it is littered with pagodas, palaces, and places a worship, not to mention the massive walled-in Citadel that was once the seat of power.  Though time, the elements, and the effects of war have taken their toll on many of the sight, their scale and ambition still shine through, giving the visitors a glimpse of what visitors to Hue would have experienced a century ago.

Before diving into the historic sights (and as a pre-emptive warning, this post will consist almost entirely of pictures of temples and pagodas), you’ve got to get yourself settled in town.  Whereas it is quite the cliché to describe a city as a merging of historic remnants and modern influences, Hue stands as a stark example of where this dichotomy actually exists – and with a handy dividing line, too!  The town is roughly divided in half by the Song Huong River (or Perfume River), with the former imperial city — the Citadel — lying on the Northern banks and the modern heart of the city lying to the South.  Both can be explored readily by foot, but the many pagodas and the tombs of the former emperors are sprinkled along the Song Huong River as it meanders its way outside of town, so other means of transportation are required to visit these.  Here are a few pictures from around town:

Streets of Hue

A colorful variety of incense options (the different colors indicate different scents)

The bridge over the Song Huong River, merging the old and the new

The streets of the town from above

The Toan Tile Bridge, a favorite hangout for sleepy taxi drivers with little motivation to find any fares

The Citadel of Hue, otherwise know as Kinh Thanh, serves as the focal point of the city’s political and spiritual history.  The massive Imperial city, measuring over 2 kilometers in each direction, was further fortified by a moat surrounding its entire perimeter and secured by a 6 meter high wall running its length and width.  Unfortunately, much of the interior structures were destroyed when they were bombed in the American War in the late 1960′s, but ongoing efforts continue to both preserve what is left and to reconstruct what once stood.

The Ngo Mon Gate, the "front door" to the Citadel, so to speak

Striding along the same hallways that emperors once paced only a century earlier

The Imperial Enclosure -- also known as the Forbidden Purple City -- is yet another, more secure layer that lies within the heart of the already walled-in Citadel

Outside of the main temple areas, however, the rest of vast area that the Citadel covers has been reclaimed as either agricultural land or repurposed into residential quarters

It has nothing to do with the history of the area, but here's a quick shot of an art exhibit on a lake within the Citadel that I thought was pretty interesting

After hiking around the Citadel for a day or two, another great option is to head out-of-town to the surrounding countryside, where you can visit any number of Pagodas (places of worship) or the remains of the tombs leftover by the city’s emperors.  There are bus tours that will haul you around (along with 3 dozen other travellers) that are available all over town, and even an option to see the sights via boat, but I opted for a bit more customizable option: a motorbike tour!  Luckily, the streets aren’t as congested as I witnessed in Hanoi — and my motorbike driver also thought to bring me a helmet to wear – so the ’Danger Index’ wasn’t as high as it could have been.

I know it is a terrible idea to attempt to take pictures like this, but I couldn't help myself. That's me riding on the back of the bike (which, on a side note, only cost about ten dollars for both the bike and the driver/guide for the entire day. Gotta like the exchange rate here).

The endless rice paddies that consume virtually any usable plot of land outside of the cities

Khai Dinh Tomb, my personal favorite

The interior of the Khai Ding tomb is an exercise in excess, as decorations and ornaments were imported from Japan, China, Korea, and virtually any other far-flung destination on the continent that had something beautiful and ornate to offer

The Thien Mu Pagoda

I have no idea how this tree hasn't fallen over

The view back over the river from the Thien Mu Pagoda

Tu Duc Tomb

Even the roof tiles have the ornate characteristics that decree, "Here lies an Emperor"

Tu Hieu Pagoda

A peaceful pond at the base of the Tu Hieu Pagoda where one can meditate upon the eternal truths of the world, or simply contemplate what delicious delicacy they'd like to enjoy for dinner that night (note: shameless segue into the food portion of this post)

Along with the deteriorating Citadel and the numerous monumental tombs, another holdover from Hue’s Imperial days is the cuisine.  Although it draws in influences from all over Vietnam, the Imperial cuisine emphasizes smaller portions, fresh ingredients, and immaculate presentation.  Although I’ve already touched on many of the staples of Vietnamese cuisine with my last post, I’ll just show a few of the specialties of Hue itself:

Bun Bo Hue - the most famous of Hue's dishes. Vermicelli noodles drowned in a spicy beef broth (and sometime including pork knuckle, as well) that carries a predominant lemongrass flavor.

Imperial Tea of Hue - a delightfully sweet brew of various flowers and tisanes

Goi Cung Dinh Hue (or Imperial Salad of Hue) - a salad of shrimp, pork, squid, carrots, and various greens and herbs

Banh Nam - Shrimp and Pork mixed with rice flour and steamed in banana leaves

Banh Khoai - a fried pancake stuffed with shrimp, bean sprouts, and various veggies

Although a massive walled-city surrounded by a moat, a series of monolithic tombs, and more pagodas than one can count are nice and all, a city can't really define itself as "historically significant" unless it has its own beer, too!

That’s all I’ve got for now from Hue.  After this, I’m stopping again in Hoi An next on my journey south toward Saigon.  Cheers!

One of the true pleasures of visiting Southeast Asia is the absolute abundance of amazingly appetizing street food (as well as alliteration!).  Everywhere you look, there are folks parked on plastic chairs on the sidewalk digging in, small grills being rolled out and tended to with a paper fan, the welcoming aroma of seared meat wafting through the air, friendly vendors calling out to passersby, and the ever-present sound of noodles being noisily slurped (the way they’re supposed to be eaten).  Whereas street food is present in almost any city or town in this part of the world, there are still a few locations that have upped the ante more than the rest when it comes to eating on the street.  In the past, I’ve written about the many street vendors in Bangkok, the hawker centers in Singapore, and touched briefly on those edibles which can be acquired on the sidewalk in Phnom Penh, but now it’s time to turn to another great street food destination: Hanoi, Vietnam.

Tables and chairs littering the sidewalk is a fairly typical sight along the streets in the Old Quarter

Pho:

Similar to what I experienced in Singapore and Bangkok, there is a seemingly endless array of traditional dishes and new creations to pique one’s appetite.  But this being Vietnam, however, one street food dish reigns supreme: the world-famous, often-copied, often-imitated, rarely matched king of soupy-noodle breakfast concoctions known simply as Pho (pronounced more like “feh?”).  The dish, which was born in Hanoi, consists of rice noodles drowned in either a stock made from beef (Pho Bo) or made from chicken (Pho Ga) — these two will be the bulk of what you find, but there are a few other varieties out there – and then liberally seasoned by the lucky customer with herbs, fish sauce, hot sauce, bean sprouts, chilies, and vinegar.  As mentioned above, it is typically a breakfast dish, so you’ll have to wake up before noon to snag a bowl, but finding a vendor will be the least of your worries: upon setting foot outside of your guesthouse, I’m guessing you’ll be able to see at least 3 or 4 Pho vendors within eyeshot – just look for the crowds sitting on tiny stools on the sidewalk.

Pho Bo (Beef), a big heaping bowl of deliciousness defined.  Everyone has their opions on who serves the best, too, so be sure to make acquiantances with a few foodies friends and then leach off of their recommendations (this bowl happens to come from Pho Tin on Lo Duc)

A Long List of Other Streets Eats:

Pho isn’t the end-all-be-all dish in Hanoi, however.  I wasn’t able to try everything I found (even my stomach occasionally complains about the ill-treatment to which I subject it), but I did my best to work through as many of the more well-known dishes as I could.  Here are a few shots of some of what I found, although I will note, this uses the “loose” definition of street food — in which the food is served from a locale with no more than three walls as opposed to only the push-cart-type of dispensary (much of the street food in the city is actually served out of open-air kitchens on the ground floor):

Bun Cha – my personal favorite dish in Hanoi (and way up there on my whole trip so far). Grilled Pork Belly and Pork Patties are served in a smokey, savory soup-like liquid, in which you then dunk rice vermicelli noodles and a variety of herbs. A nice little dish of chilies is served on the side, as well. Shown here is the version served by the appropriately named “Bun Cha” on Hang Than

Banh Cuon – minced pork and mushrooms, rolled up and steamed in a rice flour pancake, topped with fried shallots and accompanied with a fish sauce in which to dip them (served here by Than Van Banh Cuon on Hang Ga, just down from my hostel!)

Xoi – a catch-all term for sticky rice that is then topped with your choice of ingredients. In this case, the folks at Xoi Yen hooked me up with pate and hunks of pork on top. It might not look like the most appealing dish, but wow was it good.  MMMmmmmmm…(drools on self)…

Cha Ca – a dish of slices of fish, tumeric, ginger, and herbs served with vermicelli noodles and your own table-side, flaming burner, so be careful! This one is easy to find, too, as there is an entire alley named after it

Banh My (or Banh Mi) – a French-style baguette stuffed with pate, pickled veggies, and hot sauce (though there are a few regional variations that add significantly more ingredients). Mobile vendors troll the streets all of the city selling these, all for about 65 cents a pop

Chao Ca – another breakfast of champions. This fish porridge is a variation of the Chinese congee, served here by Doan Xom Chao Ca on Hang Bang.

Xoi – anther catch-all name that encapsulates any stuffed ball of sticky rice that is then wrapped in a banana leaf and a sheet of newspaper. The stuffings can range from charred meat to nuts and fruit, but I opted for the stewed and spiced chicken variety

Pho Xao – Flat Pho rice noodles that are fried up with hunks of beef and served with a plethora of condiments

Yay for pork buns! Banh Bao, the Vietnamese version of the classic Chinese buns, can take on a slightly different slant with a variety of spicy stuffings (I couldn’t pick out all of the flavors, but this pork bun had tons of tumeric and cumin jammed in there

Goi Cuon – fresh spring rolls — often stuffed with shrimp, noodles, and various herbs — a dish that many folks immediately associate with Vietnamese cuisine

And of course, those not on a diet can opt for the fried version (Nem Ran)

It is pretty common for vendors to offer a “roll your own” spring roll option, too. Seen here is the fried catfish stuffing.

Nom Hoa Chuoi – similar to the Banana Blossom Salad found in neighboring countries, this differentiated itself by having a more balanced flavor (as opposed to just being spicy)

Nem Cua Be – Fried spring rolls stuffed with crab meat and folded into squares as opposed to the usual thin tubes

Sweet Treats:

It isn’t all savory, however.  There are a few sweet treats out there, too, if you’re either in the mood for dessert or just trying to pacify a sweet tooth:

A variety of sweet syrups, jellies, beans, and pastes at a Che vendor (and sorry for the fuzzy photo, but it was the best I had)

Given I don’t speak any Vietnamese, the Che vendor didn’t speak and English, and I didn’t know what half the topping were, I felt pretty good about the comprise we reached, which was the vendor just going down the line grabbing a spoonful of everything (a la a “Suicide” at the cola dispenser) and then stirring it all up. Tasty and refreshing.

Near any of the tourist attractions, you’ll inevitably bump into a few of the vendors roaming around in search of buyers for their fried sweets, or I should say, they’ll find you (and they’re pushy, too!)

Fresh Juice Vendors are also plentiful…

…but if all else fails, you can never go wrong with battered and deep-fried hunks of fruit, too

Caffeine:

Besides simply leaving behind the legacy of the baguette (for the Banh Mi), the French Colonial period also instilled in the Vietnamese people the strong desire to sit in cafes sipping on cups of coffee strong enough to power their motorbikes.  Just as you can’t turn around without bumping into a Pho vendor early in the morning, you can hardly throw a stone without hitting a coffee shop come the afternoon.  Vietnam is one of the heaviest coffee growing regions in the area, and subsequently, they have a wide selection of caffeine-induced beverages to choose from.

Vietnamese-style coffee is served with a generous dollop of sweetened, condensed milk, giving the drink a sweet, grainy texture that transforms it into something more akin to crack (at least in its addictive qualities)

Given the heat and humidity, however, many opt for the Ca Phe Sua, which is the same as the Vietnamese style pictured above, just served chilled over ice. In this case, I snapped the picture before stirring up the sweetened, condensed milk

And then there is my new favorite caffeinated beverage on the planet: Ca Phe Trung (also known as “Egg Coffee”). The recipe is quick and easy to master: simply take a cup of Vietnamese coffee, drop in a cracked egg, and whisk it up until it is a delicious, sludgy mess of goop

One of the more famous varieties in the area (similar to the famous Indonesian Kopi Luwak) is a type of coffee bean that is eaten by a weasel and then subsequently “collected” from the droppings. Supposedly, this acts as both a screening process for the beans, as the weasels only eat the beans that are at the peak of their freshness, and a processing step that adds a bit of early flavor to the coffee

I did try the Weasel Coffee, and it hardly tasted like droppings at all!

The Intoxicating Side of Things:

Before I hit Vietnam, I knew that there was one beverage that I had to seek out as soon as I arrived: that of Bia Hoi.  It is essentially a foamy, fizzy, low-alcohol beer that is brewed fresh each morning and will continue to lose its freshness and carbonation as the day goes on – or at least until that particular vendor runs out for the day and closes up shop.  This is primary a Northern Vietnamese thing (specifically Hanoi), but anywhere you see a group of people sitting on tiny plastic stool, drinking away, you’ll know you found a bia hoi vendor.  And the best part?  Each glass of beer costs only 5,000 Dong, or a little less than 25 cents!

Bia Hoi in its natural setting, pumped out by an old lady hauling a small keg around, in a marginally dirty glass, and served atop a small plastic table right on the side of the road

If you’ve had enough of the exhaust fumes and motorbike horns, you can always pop inside a bar and grab a cold Larue Beer, too

For those long, hard days when you need a stronger shot in the arm than beer can provide, there is always Vietnamese Rice Vodka as an alternative (though make sure there are no Russians around, something I neglected to do, unless you plan on finishing the bottle)

And as a final offering for this food-and-drink-only post, I’ll offer up a quartet of different rice whiskeys for your tasting pleasure. Cheers!